Monday, 28 November 2011

Château Musar 2001 Red


Few wine producers founded in the modern era can claim to have witnessed as many world-changing events as the famous Château Musar in Lebanon's Beka'a Valley.  Perilously close to the tumultuous border with Syria, Musar has quite literally seen the front lines of some of the world's most heart breaking conflicts.  Proprietor Gaston Hochar deserves the highest esteem for refusing to slake his production throughout multiple regional wars, meanwhile maintaining his standards of high quality and unique style.  That said, Musar, has a reptutation for streaky vintages, with some underwhelming wines for the reputation held by the château.  Let us see how this ten-year-old vintage performs...

Country of Origin: Lebanon
Region: Beka'a valley
Varieties: Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Syrah
Price range: £20-25
Biodynamic/ Organic

Appearance:  Time resting in bottle has done some lovely things to the colour of this wine.  I am a highly visual taster, and often I fear that my tastes are overly influenced by the appearance of the wine in the glass, but this is a beautiful brick red, showing a thorough aging process over the ten years since vintage.  It isn't terribly clear, somewhat reminiscent of a young Burgundy but with a slight orange tinge.

Nose:  Great aromatics to be sure, dark cherries and a dusty black currant showing the quality of the Cabernet here.  I've heard rumours that Gaston Hochar pulled a rather cavalier move in taking some Cabernet cuttings from Château Lafite-Rothschild, and if that's so, it's interesting to see how that affects this Cinsault-dominated blend.  A bit of pencil lead, which leads me to think that the Cinsault is definitely being overwhelmed by the Cabernet and a hint of brine shows the character of the aged Syrah.  Over all, a unique and complex nose, worth a long consideration.  Beautiful so far!

Palate: Despite the age on this fellow, the tannins were quite grippy upon first opening the bottle, again showing the strength of the Cabernet, but they have mellowed out quite a lot giving a chance for the delicate Carignan and Cinsault to show through on the palate.  A hint of flowers and dusty earth add a lovely complexity to this glass of fine wine.

Overall:  Some have ventured the timeless error of comparing this wine to the classic regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux, for it's elegance and it's grip respectively.  This is completely beside the point of Musar.  It is unique stuff with a character of it's own.  Definitely worth consideration as a serious fine wine for a great value.  Check your vintages and get a good one and hold onto it at least ten years!  It will reward your patience, especially when it takes part in a mouthful of good spiced roast lamb.

Score: 89/100

Tuesday, 11 October 2011

Au Bon Climat 2008 Pinot Noir



Today I am delving into a bottle of Jim Clemenden's 2008 Pinot Noir.  It isn't until relatively recently that this brilliant wine maker has begun importing into the UK and I believe that it is a great fortune of ours to have finally gotten a hold of these lovely wines.  The merchant responsible for Mr. Clemenden's wines entering the UK, Fields, Morris & Verdin, describes the wine-making methods of Au Bon Climat as Californian style and Burgundian sensibility.  I hope to explore some of that claim in my notes.  Happy reading...

Country of Origin: United States
Viticultural Region: Santa Maria Valley, CA
Varietals: Pinot Noir 100%
Price Range: £20-£25
Biodynamic/ Organic

Appearance:  On first glance this wine has a deep colour not expected from a Pinot, but the intensity is beautiful and the clarity is lovely.  Even the first glass has some crustiness in the bottom, clearly visible through the wine.  I look to this wine to fulfill my desire for all things unfiltered and raw.

Nose:  Burying my nose into my glass, I smell a complex aroma of fresh heather blossoms and damp peat-bog.  There is a subtle farminess on the nose and a hint of livestock.  Of course, this seemingly unappealing note is present in all the most positive ways and I consider a bit of rustic goat hair to be a huge positive.  It is a great Burgundian nose with a definite Californian touch.

Palate:  So delightfully delicate and sublime.  It dances a lilt across the tongue and pleases on so many levels.  After a bite of my lamb, the lilt becomes a fling and this wine really shows it's character as a match for food.  It is simply superb and in my opinion quite simply outclasses many of the Burgundies I have had in this price range and well above.

It is an example of a great US pinot.  I think this wine is a display of great finesse and what I imagine must be a great deal of personal touch from Jim Clemenden himself.  I feel like wine in the glass contains the fruits of the wine-makers labours and this glass contains some painstaking labour.

Bravo, Mr. Clemenden.


93/100