My Love Hate Relationship...

Hey Everyone,

Today I am writing about my most conflicted of feelings in the entire world of wine. It is the strange phenomenon of the head versus the heart and the knowledge of the former pitted against the uncompromising nature of the latter. The subject matter: Italy, the dilemma; I know it's good and that I like the styles of wine produced there, yet never will I choose a bottle of Chianti over a Rioja or Barolo over Bordeaux. I wrote a post last year about how much I like the rustic wines from appellations such as Chianti Rufina and Abruzzo, and I really enjoy a good bottle of Barbera with a bowl of pasta or a steak, but I fear that my consumption of Italian wine is somewhat forced.

A friend of mine, the proprietor of St. Andrews Wine Company is planning a dinner with a local restaurant which promises to be a truly inspiring experience with a well considered selection of wines to match each course. At first the theme for wines of the evening was said to be the Rhône Valley and I was ecstatic. I pictured a gorgeous dinner starting with duck liver pate and Condrieu or smoked fish and Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc followed by a braised beef with a spicy Cornas or Cote-Rotie, all to be washed down with a sweet Muscat Beaumes de Venise. Thats when someone suggested Italian wines and my dreams of a Rhône dinner were dashed.

Thats because interesting Italian wines are exciting for just about everyone except me. For some reason I like Italian wines to be simple and easy, not big and complex. I don't know exactly why, because I want this from every other wine I drink; perhaps it is a realm of refuge from the overly cerebral bottles I usually encounter. When it comes to beer, though I love interesting well crafted ales, I can get tired of 7% hoppy IPAs. It may be that Italian wine fulfills the same role for me that English bitter fulfills in respect to beer. It is an escape. That said I know that top flight Italian wine is amazing stuff and whenever I taste it I am happy to have done so, but I cannot say that I would ever choose it for myself.

For instance, last night in the wine shop, Peter opened a bottle of 2008 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It was massive, big bright black fruits reminiscent of Napa Cabernet with the alcohol to match. It was excellent stuff, better than most of the wines I've been drinking lately, and perhaps ironically, way better than the Crozes-Hermitage (from the Rhône I love so well) I had two nights ago.

I recognised long ago that loving wine is a growing process, with twists and turns. Where one thing is your passion at the moment and the other your passing fancy, these things may change any moment. There was a time when I wouldn't have even considered buying a bottle of Bordeaux over an American Cabernet, but my tastes have changed and tasting this beautiful Vino Nobile may well have changed my thoughts on what people call 'more interesting' Italian wines.

If there is something you are prejudiced against out there in the wine world, as I admit to myself, make a concerted effort to change your opinion or at least find out exactly why you feel that way. It could be an exciting revelation!

Much Love,

G.

Posted with Blogsy

Au Bon Climat 2008 Pinot Noir

Today I am delving into a bottle of Jim Clemenden's 2008 Pinot Noir.  It isn't until relatively recently that this brilliant wine maker has begun importing into the UK and I believe that it is a great fortune of ours to have finally gotten a hold of these lovely wines.  The merchant responsible for Mr. Clemenden's wines entering the UK, Fields, Morris & Verdin, describes the wine-making methods of Au Bon Climat as Californian style and Burgundian sensibility.  I hope to explore some of that claim in my notes.  Happy reading...

Country of Origin: United States
Viticultural Region: Santa Maria Valley, CA
Varietals: Pinot Noir 100%
Price Range: £20-£25
Biodynamic/ Organic

Appearance:  On first glance this wine has a deep colour not expected from a Pinot, but the intensity is beautiful and the clarity is lovely.  Even the first glass has some crustiness in the bottom, clearly visible through the wine.  I look to this wine to fulfill my desire for all things unfiltered and raw.

Nose:  Burying my nose into my glass, I smell a complex aroma of fresh heather blossoms and damp peat-bog.  There is a subtle farminess on the nose and a hint of livestock.  Of course, this seemingly unappealing note is present in all the most positive ways and I consider a bit of rustic goat hair to be a huge positive.  It is a great Burgundian nose with a definite Californian touch.

Palate:  So delightfully delicate and sublime.  It dances a lilt across the tongue and pleases on so many levels.  After a bite of my lamb, the lilt becomes a fling and this wine really shows it's character as a match for food.  It is simply superb and in my opinion quite simply outclasses many of the Burgundies I have had in this price range and well above.

It is an example of a great US pinot.  I think this wine is a display of great finesse and what I imagine must be a great deal of personal touch from Jim Clemenden himself.  I feel like wine in the glass contains the fruits of the wine-makers labours and this glass contains some painstaking labour.

Bravo, Mr. Clemenden.

93/100