Hey Everyone,
Today I am writing about my most conflicted of feelings in the entire world of wine. It is the strange phenomenon of the head versus the heart and the knowledge of the former pitted against the uncompromising nature of the latter. The subject matter: Italy, the dilemma; I know it's good and that I like the styles of wine produced there, yet never will I choose a bottle of Chianti over a Rioja or Barolo over Bordeaux. I wrote a post last year about how much I like the rustic wines from appellations such as Chianti Rufina and Abruzzo, and I really enjoy a good bottle of Barbera with a bowl of pasta or a steak, but I fear that my consumption of Italian wine is somewhat forced.
A friend of mine, the proprietor of St. Andrews Wine Company is planning a dinner with a local restaurant which promises to be a truly inspiring experience with a well considered selection of wines to match each course. At first the theme for wines of the evening was said to be the Rhône Valley and I was ecstatic. I pictured a gorgeous dinner starting with duck liver pate and Condrieu or smoked fish and Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc followed by a braised beef with a spicy Cornas or Cote-Rotie, all to be washed down with a sweet Muscat Beaumes de Venise. Thats when someone suggested Italian wines and my dreams of a Rhône dinner were dashed.
Thats because interesting Italian wines are exciting for just about everyone except me. For some reason I like Italian wines to be simple and easy, not big and complex. I don't know exactly why, because I want this from every other wine I drink; perhaps it is a realm of refuge from the overly cerebral bottles I usually encounter. When it comes to beer, though I love interesting well crafted ales, I can get tired of 7% hoppy IPAs. It may be that Italian wine fulfills the same role for me that English bitter fulfills in respect to beer. It is an escape. That said I know that top flight Italian wine is amazing stuff and whenever I taste it I am happy to have done so, but I cannot say that I would ever choose it for myself.
For instance, last night in the wine shop, Peter opened a bottle of 2008 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It was massive, big bright black fruits reminiscent of Napa Cabernet with the alcohol to match. It was excellent stuff, better than most of the wines I've been drinking lately, and perhaps ironically, way better than the Crozes-Hermitage (from the Rhône I love so well) I had two nights ago.
I recognised long ago that loving wine is a growing process, with twists and turns. Where one thing is your passion at the moment and the other your passing fancy, these things may change any moment. There was a time when I wouldn't have even considered buying a bottle of Bordeaux over an American Cabernet, but my tastes have changed and tasting this beautiful Vino Nobile may well have changed my thoughts on what people call 'more interesting' Italian wines.
If there is something you are prejudiced against out there in the wine world, as I admit to myself, make a concerted effort to change your opinion or at least find out exactly why you feel that way. It could be an exciting revelation!
Much Love,
G.
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Wednesday, 16 January 2013
Posted with Blogsy
Sunday, 4 November 2012
American in Paris (Drinking Wine)
Hey Everyone,
Today I am writing to you all on the last night of my trip to Paris, where I've been wandering aimlessly and without itinerary for about 4 days now. No agenda, no contacts and no travel companions has led me to realise that my best friend in this city right now is a good bottle of wine and I am happy to report that I have been spoiled rotten.
Before I get into the more enjoyable parts of my visit and talk about the wine one can find in Paris, I will acknowledge the shortcomings of the French wine market. While this country produces more wine than any other apart from Italy and is known around the world for leading the rest in quality and fame for it's producers, there is a lack of context for it all. I mean to say that I have seen exactly one bottle of Spanish wine (2007 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva) and not much else from outside of France.
What I lamented in particular was the absence of many interesting wine regions of this very country. In my visit to many different caves in the city I came across one Bandol, one Cumieres, one Cahors and two Juras (a red and a white from the same producer next to each other on the shelf). I was hoping for a chance to find a selection of unique French wines I may not have heard of, but by and large all that was on offer consistently was very recent Bordeaux Supérieur, Dotes du Rhone, Bourgogne Aligoté (oddly enough) and a large amount of Petit Chablis. Then of course there was the ocean of Beaujolais. I've come to the conclusion that Paris is less concerned with the variety and more focused on a consistent selection.
That said, I was lucky enough to find two or three very good shops in Paris and I was able to grab a couple of nice bottles during my time here. One such shop, identified only by the titles "Cave des Cigares, Cave des Vin" was a shop very much up my alley. Aside form finding a myriad selection of cigars from some of my favourite houses at a fraction of the British price, I also found an interesting assortment of Bordeaux and Rhone. I could count perhaps 40 wines in total but the selection was an exciting one. With under twenty Euros I was able to grab a 2000 Saint-Émilion which was really fabulous stuff as well as a brilliantly concentrated 2009 Cahors.
I've never had a good Cahors and this one for under ten quid was a nice cheapie. It was rich and had a thick layering of black currant, smoke, flint and really firm tannins. I know why this stuff doesn't come often to the UK seeing as it is somewhat impenetrable for all that tannin and acidity, but when you get your palate to grips with it, it's like gaining a taste for cask strength whisky; it pleases on a whole new level.
Just on the other side of the hill of Montmartre and the Sacre Couer lies the neighbourhood of Abbesses; the only part of town where people would put up with my poor French and encourage me along. The Cave des Abbesses is pretty much a hall way lined with shelves and bottles and here I found a wide selection of mature wines for a damn good price. From 2001 alone I found bottles of Cornas, Côte-Rotie, Bergerac, Pomerol and half a dozen other amazing appellations allowing the drinker the chance to buy wine ready to go or age depending on preference. A nice collection of white Burgundy, white Rhône and bordeaux blanc (I treated myself to a bottle of white Graves for the composition of this post) made for an interesting range of whites, especially for the oak-crazy palate I get at this time of year.
The one to take the cake and eat it too, however was the Épicerie Legrand Filles et Fils, located on Rue de la Banque in the 2nd Arrondissement may be a bit out of the average price range, and in particular seeing as I was on my own, however it was a uniquely engaging place. A good selection of Wines from pretty much every major appellation as well as a great selection of half bottles including Chateau Gazin, Beychevelle and others made for interesting browsing. Of particular interest to me was the wide selection of top notch growers' champagnes and a fair selection of single malt. The shop itself was never overly self conscious with the newer parts being evidently new but tasteful and the older rooms showing their age gently, and none of the faux-olde-worlde look a lot of wine shops go for.
The tasting room was more of a bar with the sort of feel that it could equally welcome a business lunch as it could host a couple of curious twenty-year-old oenophiles. The selection of first growths in magnum, double magnum and larger was certainly inspiring.
As my bottle of Graves grows more and more empty I am afraid I am becoming sentimental about my trip to Paris. Rarely does one spend so long without conversation, or so much time within one's own thoughts, yet I find the situation invigorating. While I can tell that Paris is a city for pairs, it isn't all bad for ones, and if you can find a spot in the big city for yourself you will enjoy your stay to be sure. I look forward to returning to Paris with company and to venture more regularly into the wine world of this city but for now I leave you with these bits of wisdom from a wine-loving traveller; look high and low in Paris and you will certainly be rewarded with some of the best wines you can find.
Much Love,
G
Today I am writing to you all on the last night of my trip to Paris, where I've been wandering aimlessly and without itinerary for about 4 days now. No agenda, no contacts and no travel companions has led me to realise that my best friend in this city right now is a good bottle of wine and I am happy to report that I have been spoiled rotten.
Before I get into the more enjoyable parts of my visit and talk about the wine one can find in Paris, I will acknowledge the shortcomings of the French wine market. While this country produces more wine than any other apart from Italy and is known around the world for leading the rest in quality and fame for it's producers, there is a lack of context for it all. I mean to say that I have seen exactly one bottle of Spanish wine (2007 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva) and not much else from outside of France.
What I lamented in particular was the absence of many interesting wine regions of this very country. In my visit to many different caves in the city I came across one Bandol, one Cumieres, one Cahors and two Juras (a red and a white from the same producer next to each other on the shelf). I was hoping for a chance to find a selection of unique French wines I may not have heard of, but by and large all that was on offer consistently was very recent Bordeaux Supérieur, Dotes du Rhone, Bourgogne Aligoté (oddly enough) and a large amount of Petit Chablis. Then of course there was the ocean of Beaujolais. I've come to the conclusion that Paris is less concerned with the variety and more focused on a consistent selection.
That said, I was lucky enough to find two or three very good shops in Paris and I was able to grab a couple of nice bottles during my time here. One such shop, identified only by the titles "Cave des Cigares, Cave des Vin" was a shop very much up my alley. Aside form finding a myriad selection of cigars from some of my favourite houses at a fraction of the British price, I also found an interesting assortment of Bordeaux and Rhone. I could count perhaps 40 wines in total but the selection was an exciting one. With under twenty Euros I was able to grab a 2000 Saint-Émilion which was really fabulous stuff as well as a brilliantly concentrated 2009 Cahors.
I've never had a good Cahors and this one for under ten quid was a nice cheapie. It was rich and had a thick layering of black currant, smoke, flint and really firm tannins. I know why this stuff doesn't come often to the UK seeing as it is somewhat impenetrable for all that tannin and acidity, but when you get your palate to grips with it, it's like gaining a taste for cask strength whisky; it pleases on a whole new level.
Just on the other side of the hill of Montmartre and the Sacre Couer lies the neighbourhood of Abbesses; the only part of town where people would put up with my poor French and encourage me along. The Cave des Abbesses is pretty much a hall way lined with shelves and bottles and here I found a wide selection of mature wines for a damn good price. From 2001 alone I found bottles of Cornas, Côte-Rotie, Bergerac, Pomerol and half a dozen other amazing appellations allowing the drinker the chance to buy wine ready to go or age depending on preference. A nice collection of white Burgundy, white Rhône and bordeaux blanc (I treated myself to a bottle of white Graves for the composition of this post) made for an interesting range of whites, especially for the oak-crazy palate I get at this time of year.
The one to take the cake and eat it too, however was the Épicerie Legrand Filles et Fils, located on Rue de la Banque in the 2nd Arrondissement may be a bit out of the average price range, and in particular seeing as I was on my own, however it was a uniquely engaging place. A good selection of Wines from pretty much every major appellation as well as a great selection of half bottles including Chateau Gazin, Beychevelle and others made for interesting browsing. Of particular interest to me was the wide selection of top notch growers' champagnes and a fair selection of single malt. The shop itself was never overly self conscious with the newer parts being evidently new but tasteful and the older rooms showing their age gently, and none of the faux-olde-worlde look a lot of wine shops go for.
The tasting room was more of a bar with the sort of feel that it could equally welcome a business lunch as it could host a couple of curious twenty-year-old oenophiles. The selection of first growths in magnum, double magnum and larger was certainly inspiring.
As my bottle of Graves grows more and more empty I am afraid I am becoming sentimental about my trip to Paris. Rarely does one spend so long without conversation, or so much time within one's own thoughts, yet I find the situation invigorating. While I can tell that Paris is a city for pairs, it isn't all bad for ones, and if you can find a spot in the big city for yourself you will enjoy your stay to be sure. I look forward to returning to Paris with company and to venture more regularly into the wine world of this city but for now I leave you with these bits of wisdom from a wine-loving traveller; look high and low in Paris and you will certainly be rewarded with some of the best wines you can find.
Much Love,
G
Friday, 20 April 2012
Taste of the Place
Hey Everyone,
My favourite thing about wine is always its ability to express a region. My favourite advertising campaign, for sheer irony's sake, is Anakena saying that their wine is an expression of the people. If so, it does not bode well for the people of Chile. Fortunately, there are better wines from the narrow stretch of land between the Andes and the sea. That said, they are right that a wine should be an expression of people, but it should also be an expression of the place. Though I usually disregard the notion of "Old World/ New World" distinctions, there is one consistency which I find appealing and that is the expression of soil found in Old World wines.
This all came on me as I am trying to revisit those classic regions which I tend to neglect in my pursuit of finding new wines from interesting parts of the world. I recently had a beautiful bottle of Mercurey (Red Burgundy) which tickled my fancy as being a true classic of it's appellation. Big juicy raspberry fruits, plenty of bracing acidity and a hint of tannin all made for a complete wine which I feel truly expresses the character of this very specific region of Burgundy.
While I was in Champagne last weekend, visiting the premises of Bollinger in Ay, I was allowed to try some truly beautiful wines made to express the soil and the atmosphere around the vines. The environment which sustains and gives life to the vines should be present in the final bottle of wine and no country more so than France shows this in the glass. The house's own wines, in particular the more recent vintage, the Grande Année 2002, showed a beautiful character of chalky texture and aroma which is just so definitive of the Champagne region alongside the hints of green pepper and bright green fruit which makes young vintage champagne just so quaffable.
During the competition we were once charged with the identification of three red wines. We were provided with the context that one wine was French and the others should be identified with their appropriate regions. Upon smelling these wines, the three presented very different styles, but the first and the third wines gave themselves away. The third, clearly a jammy Australian Shiraz, told no lies. It was open with it's fruit and it's deep blueberry body. The first one, smelling of a bit of cracked black pepper and a lot of a maritime breeze jumped forward as a classic Syrah form the Northern Rhone. Though we guessed Crozes-Hermitage and it turned out to be the appellation down the road at Saint Joseph, we knew exactly why we selected France as it's country of origin.
In the Northern Rhone Valley, the most striking character of the wines, which sets them apart from 'New World' Shiraz/ Syrah is that lovely elegant aroma and texture given by the dusty, rocky soil. The effect of this so-called 'minerality is the sensation of tasting a smooth river-stone in your mouth. While that may not sound great in writing, it is genuinely a pleasing characteristic in a quality red wine. In this particular wine, it was a thing of beauty.
In the tie breaking final round, the red which was presented to us, a Chateau Palmer 1998 from Margaux in Bordeaux, leapt forward as a bottle of minerality. Though I personally thought it to be a Cabernet Franc/ Merlot blend from Saint-Emilion on the other side of the Gironde, it's stoney texture and smoothly slate-like tannins were definitely a mark made upon the wine by the soil. While this is a supremely expensive bottle of wine, you can f course get ahold of some lovely wines with the expression of the soil in the glass. Check out my earlier post on a nice affordable Crozes-Hermitage form Paul Jaboulet-Aîné. Similarly, Chablis is a good place to start for picking out the chalky wonders possible in a good Chardonnay.
Basically I love the idea of being able to experience a place in the wine. When you are unable to go to taste a wine in the region of it's production and smell all the aromas of the vineyard, the next best thing is to taste it in the glass. I hope you all get the chance to try out something unique, which celebrates it's place of origin.
Much Love,
G
My favourite thing about wine is always its ability to express a region. My favourite advertising campaign, for sheer irony's sake, is Anakena saying that their wine is an expression of the people. If so, it does not bode well for the people of Chile. Fortunately, there are better wines from the narrow stretch of land between the Andes and the sea. That said, they are right that a wine should be an expression of people, but it should also be an expression of the place. Though I usually disregard the notion of "Old World/ New World" distinctions, there is one consistency which I find appealing and that is the expression of soil found in Old World wines.
 |
| Chateau Palmer 1998 Margaux |
While I was in Champagne last weekend, visiting the premises of Bollinger in Ay, I was allowed to try some truly beautiful wines made to express the soil and the atmosphere around the vines. The environment which sustains and gives life to the vines should be present in the final bottle of wine and no country more so than France shows this in the glass. The house's own wines, in particular the more recent vintage, the Grande Année 2002, showed a beautiful character of chalky texture and aroma which is just so definitive of the Champagne region alongside the hints of green pepper and bright green fruit which makes young vintage champagne just so quaffable.
During the competition we were once charged with the identification of three red wines. We were provided with the context that one wine was French and the others should be identified with their appropriate regions. Upon smelling these wines, the three presented very different styles, but the first and the third wines gave themselves away. The third, clearly a jammy Australian Shiraz, told no lies. It was open with it's fruit and it's deep blueberry body. The first one, smelling of a bit of cracked black pepper and a lot of a maritime breeze jumped forward as a classic Syrah form the Northern Rhone. Though we guessed Crozes-Hermitage and it turned out to be the appellation down the road at Saint Joseph, we knew exactly why we selected France as it's country of origin.
 |
| St. Andrew's Tasting Team at Bollinger |
In the tie breaking final round, the red which was presented to us, a Chateau Palmer 1998 from Margaux in Bordeaux, leapt forward as a bottle of minerality. Though I personally thought it to be a Cabernet Franc/ Merlot blend from Saint-Emilion on the other side of the Gironde, it's stoney texture and smoothly slate-like tannins were definitely a mark made upon the wine by the soil. While this is a supremely expensive bottle of wine, you can f course get ahold of some lovely wines with the expression of the soil in the glass. Check out my earlier post on a nice affordable Crozes-Hermitage form Paul Jaboulet-Aîné. Similarly, Chablis is a good place to start for picking out the chalky wonders possible in a good Chardonnay.
Basically I love the idea of being able to experience a place in the wine. When you are unable to go to taste a wine in the region of it's production and smell all the aromas of the vineyard, the next best thing is to taste it in the glass. I hope you all get the chance to try out something unique, which celebrates it's place of origin.
Much Love,
G
Monday, 16 April 2012
It's good to have friends.
Hey Everyone,
Today I'm writing to you from one of the most lovely neighbourhoods I've had the pleasure to visit in many years. I woke up this morning to the lovely sounds of church bells, my favourite alarmer. I can hear the sounds of Sunday morning in the city outside and a beautiful sense of peace and calm pervading. I am sitting in a small but cosy flat here in the heart of Montmartre. I often marvel at the good fortune which comes my way, even if it comes along with some rather embarrassing lost in translation moments.
I came to Paris with three friends, two on the Univeristy Wine Tasting Team with me to compete in the Sciences Po International Tasting competition. The competition was amazing and the wines we tried were delightful. The questions were challenging and the results for the team were exhilarating. Overall the most interesting bit was how friendly the people involved were. The people at Bollinger, the hosting Champagne house in Ay, were incredibly welcoming, were generous with their wine, giving us the chance to try four different vintages of their champagne as well as plenty of their basic rose and non vintage.
 |
| Bollinger RD |
By the time we left the winery, those hosting our visit were eager to stress that we were welcome to come visit anytime, that we could come experience a harvest in September and that we were always welcome to stay in Ay. From what I've been told, these offers are not hollow promises and once you are brought into the fold with someone like Bollinger you are always welcome to come again. For this visit, I cannot sing the praises loudly enough for the hospitality of Sciences Po and Bollinger. I am truly fortunate to be in this kind of trade. Sometimes I am nervous about my choice of career, but when I see that's will be working with people this friendly, I can't help feel I've made the right decision.
 |
| Delightful Grand Année |
The champagnes were Bollinger RD 1995, Bollinger RD 1996, and Bollinger RD 1997.
The whites included a 2004 Vouvray, Chilean Chardonnay 2009, and an Alsace Riesling 2008
The reds were Saint Joseph 2009, Chilean Syrah 2009, and an Australian Shiraz 2009
The final three teams were given a Bollinger Grande Annee 2002 and a 1998 Chateau Palmer.
So a huge thanks to Bollinger and to Sciences Po for hosting this truly enjoyable competition. It was a great opportune to meet people with similar interests and to see a beautiful place.
Much love,
G
 |
| Photography compliments of George Flickinger |
Monday, 19 March 2012
Loire Valley
.JPG) |
| Great examples of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé |
Hi Everyone,
Today's post comes to you as I am currently exploring
the under-appreciated valley of the Loire. I know that many of
us are introduced to the Loire through it's most popular district, Sancerre, but
there is so much to be found as well as this full-flavoured Sauvignon Blanc.
The Loire is renowned throughout the world for so many reasons
beyond it's great wines. It is the very landscape of history, speckled
with countless châteaux of the most stunning grandeur and beauty. Some of
the great marvels of European architecture, such as Château de Chaumont and the
magnificent Chenonceau, dominate the towns and farmlands of this picturesque
river valley. The Loire itself is a beautiful river, flowing more than
1,000 miles from the south of France, emptying into the Atlantic Ocean at
Saint-Nazaire.
The wines of this region are as numerous and varied as the spires
of the noble châteaux which dot the landscape, from the crisp Sauvignon Blancs
of Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre to the full sweet Chenin Blanc of Vouvray.
Not to be forgotten of course are the reds, with the noble grape Cabernet
Franc dominating alongside a couple of Pinot Noirs. As I look more and
more into these wines, I realise that the Loire Valley is home to some truly
great wines, exuding minerality, balanced acidity and overall class and
elegance.
.JPG)
Predictably for me, I love the Loire for it's willingness to
embrace it's classic traditions. For a region so visibly steeped in
history, prominently exhibited in it's castles and mediaeval market towns, it
is natural that the wine-making should follow suit and embrace it's own unique
gifts. Here, wine grows up around towns and gains a reputation for it's
individual style. For example, the wines of Pouily-Fumé, from the
vineyards surrounding the town of Pouilly-sur-Loire have developed a
delightful, crisp minerality which resembles a struck flint or wet stones.
The wines around the village of Saumur include some delightful
reds and some wonderfully balanced whites, from Cabernet France and Chenin
Blanc, respectively. One producer in particular, La Cabriolé makes a
great value pair of wines. The red is freshly acidic, with light tannins
and between bright fruits and herbs. While they aren't necessarily
the world's most perfect wines, nor will they be aging for decades,
they are well-structured and show an engaging set of flavours, aromas and
acidity.
Another interesting wine which oes not get nearly the attention it
deserves are the reds from around the town of Chinon. Fresh, light and
friendly wines made also from Cabernet Franc are delicious on a summer's day
and, in my humble opinion, vastly superior to the similarly light and fruity
Beaujolais Nouveau, which serves a similar purpose. It can be drunk in
easily and has a fruity simplicity which makes it perfect for sitting on the
porch, watching a summer rain shower.
.JPG) |
| Saumur, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc |
So many of these delicious wines clock in under £20, in fact many cost less than £15. The Loire must be under-appreciated because so many of these wines could easily be sold for more (indeed many worse wines are sold for more). Not only are they good value wines, but they're also good food wines, matching pretty much anything you'd have. A nice oaky Savennieres suits perfectly to a roast chicken, while a Muscadet Sevre et Maine can be a perfect companion to mussels and oysters. If you're celebrating try a sparkling Crémant de Loire, a traditional fizzy wine blending Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc along with many other permitted grapes. Its a nice cheaper alternative to the consistently pricey Champagne.
All this leads me to describe one of my favourite wines under £20.
The red wines of St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, made from Cabernet France with
perhaps a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon are beauties for depth, complexity and
finesse. One example, Yannick Amirault La Mine, averaging around £15, has
full blackberry flavours with some hints of licorice and a sprinkling of
marjoram backed up by hints of bell-pepper. Alongside a bit of grilled
lamb, this wine is absolutely delightful and should be given the credit it
deserves.
Though the wines of the Loire speak for themselves, it seems that
often their packaging is a bit old-fashioned and off-putting. They don't
jump out from the shelves as anything interesting. They tend to look
dated and tired, with old-fashioned labels coming between drinkers and a wine
they may well enjoy greatly. Case in point, Cour-Cheverny is a perfectly
enjoyable white wine but the label is so dull and off putting, that very few people
looking for an interesting wine they've never had would give it a try.
There are a few great gems in the Loire, and if we can get past the old-fashioned look of the bottles there is a bounty of great wine to be found within.
Much Love,
G
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