Friday 10 February 2012

Italy- Great Traditions

The Greeks referred to Italy as 'Oinotria,' or the Land of Wines, owing to the plant's uncanny ability to thrive, and it is for this very reason it continues to be such a wonderful producer of wines.  It is sometimes surprising to me that so many wine-makers look to Bordeaux when their arsenal of wine is so wonderfully unique and so distinctly Italian.

My friends know me already as a huge fan of Italian wines; I have come to love the stuff since my earlier wine-drinking days.  When I first got into the world of wines in more than a casual sense, I generally allowed my views of Italian wine to be coloured in a negative way without much reason. My parents were huge fans of Chianti Classico, and still are, but before I acquired the taste for wine, I always associated Chianti with the general flavours my young palate refused. As I began to enjoy wine, Italian wines were left behind. It took some time, but eventually I came to appreciate the delights of Italy's wines.

Italy is a case in point that great wine need not bear a high price tag.  Some of my favourites; those which drew me in to love Italian wine, are not dear in price, though their style is dear to the country from whence they come.

Of course, Italy is the worlds most prolific wine producer in terms of pure volume. It is also a producer of some of the finest wines, with names like Sassicaia, Flaccianello and Argiano. Beyond these prohibitively expensive wines, the is also an astonishing array of wines from the humblest denominations right on up. Having tried the delights of Italy's repetoire, I can say that, for me, the very best this country has to offer are those wines still in keeping with the heart and soul of the people, the land and the history.

I love the style native to the Italian wine making industry for one reason above all; it's rusticity.  Wine-making, after-all wasn't originally an industry, it was mere agriculture.  The product of a farmer's labours, no more refined than the production of edible grain, and just as much a staple of daily life.  In the heart of wine denominations, such as Chianti Rufina, Rosso di Montalcino and many others, the Sangiovese grape produces beautious wines, as chalky as the land, fragrant and noble, without the pretensions finery.  Barbera d'Asti and Dolcetto d'Alba maintain the spirit of the Italian wine heritage with their notes of sour cherry and supreme simplicity and pleasance.

But there is also greatness to be achieved in the embrace of ones own noble traditions.  Without a one of the nation's great achievements in wine-making, and rightfully one of the most protected, is Amarone; a wine made by time honoured practices.  None can imitate this beauteous rendition of the fermented grape, and it is rightfully respected as a great wine.  Beyond even the near-hedonistic delights of Amarone, there is Barolo.  Almost as if it were Italy's response to Burgundy, here the native Nebbiolo grape produces wines capable to withstanding the test of time; delicate aromas, delicate fruitiness and a surprising grip make them the standard bearers of a great world of wine, unique to Italy.

So therefore, in consistency with my philosophy that wine should be a reflection of the people and the passion which surrounds the humble farms of its origins, I applaud those Italian makers who are true to their traditions and are passionate about the simple, rustic and lively expressions of the vine.

I hope you all find some time this week to relax, enjoy the world around you, and perhaps savour a nice Chianti or Barbera.

Much love,
G.

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