Traditions of Independence

Hey Everyone,

Today I'm writing about something a tad different than my usual subject matter.  I've stated many a time that I love the unselfconscious style of traditional wine makers who make the styles of wine consistent throughout the centuries.  But what does a producer do when there is relatively little history for their craft and they are more or less starting from scratch?  The answer is of course debatable and anyone can take their own line of argument.  For instance, some might say that they should find another tradition tried and true throughout the ages and adopt it as their own.  This has worked in Napa Valley, where some winemakers are making some of the most classic Burgundy-style chardonnay on the market.  But my answer is that they must look beyond their specific trade and find a native tradition and craft their art so that it stays as true as possible to the spirit of the people.

That spirit is nowhere better displayed than in the American industry of Craft brewing.  While the brewing trade has developed to a much more highly refined and diverse set of styles than it's original form as an offshoot of the 18th century British tradition, that can be put down merely to the fact that the years go on.  Quite simply, time moves forward and all things must develop.  Why then, is it that the american brewing industry made the great leap into craft brewing brewing and the population so readily embraced it as enthusiastically as they did?  in a country so set in it's ways as a light ('lite') lager drinking nation, how is it that thousands of microbreweries making such adventurous styles of beer gained such success?

I believe that it all comes down to the spirit of independence.  The American beer industry had the opportunity to be based upon the British style of bitters, or the German style of lager and in turn embraced those two, but in equal measure moved on to something more interesting.  Look at nearly every beer producing country in the world and historically the styles of beer produced was relatively monolithic.  That is why we have a certain image in our heads of Belgian beers as all looking like the three Chimay's or German Beers as looking more or less like variants of Erdinger.  I'm definitely not trashing the beer produced in these countries, I love Belgian Lambic and will no doubt one day write about it!

However, American microbreweries have no inhibitions.  Therefore, in the best and most original breweries, the head brewer will have designed his recipe because it was exactly the kind of beer he wanted to drink and it didn't exist.  It stems from a culture where making beer is fun.  Its like a grown-up-ish version of spin-art.  You throw in the ingredients and give it a couple goes until you realise that you can make some amazing stuff!

As I write this message to you, I am sitting here having a bottle of Hop Head Red by the Green Flash Co. based in San Diego.  It ticks my boxes in every way.  It's got a beautiful deep amber colour, which darkens into an opaque core.  Its aromas are pine needle-like, with a lot of fruitiness and some beautiful zest, like lemon peel.  It's fresh and pleasing with a great hoppy profile and upon sipping it, I get sweetness, richness, a thickness of body and texture followed by a drying hoppy bitter finish.  In short, it's a great red ale crossed with a great IPA.  It's a great example of the production of a style of ale that a brewer thought would be a good idea and, went ahead and made it.  The result is a complex, powerful beer that I now believe to be the single, perfect match for spicy Lamb Madras curry.

Because of this wonderfully independent style of beer production, I think that America has achieved the height of beer crafting and that it keeps true to the national spirit.  I believe that it is catching on elsewhere around the world, with micro-brewing movements in Scotland leaping forward.  Breweries such as Loch Fyne, Black Isle and Swannay as well as countless others are beautiful pockets of craft brewing leading the charge for independent brewing.  England as well is making some amazing beers these days with Kernel brewery miles ahead.

I think that in the way that Italy has it's rustic wines, which show off the spirit of the Italian countryside, America has it's craft beer.  For me, there is no bottled ambassador for america better than it's micro-brewed beers.  So go to your local beer shop and check out this great tradition of brewing.

Much Love,
G

For a few examples of some nice craft beers to check out, have a look at these:

USA: Green Flash Brewing Co., Sierra Nevada, Dogfish Head, Magic Hat, Stone, Great Divide, Aloha Brewing Co., Brooklyn Brewery and Anchor Brewing Co.

Scotland: Fyne Ales, Black Isle Brewery, Swannay, Orkney Brewery, Brew Dog, Luckie Ales, Stewart's Brewing, Williams Brothers, Traquair House, Strathaven and Houston

The list goes on!