Stars of the 2013 SA Trip- Where are they now?

Hey Everybody,

One of the most important things in winemaking, at least in new world countries where vintage variation is less of a factor, is consistency.  As a writer I would rather be effective across a smaller range of topics than create a broad-ranging array of articles with little focus.  To that end I am writing today about a few tastings I've conducted over the past month with a few other South African wines with which I have become well-acquainted in recent years.  Keeping up on how wines age and how producers develop from vintage to vintage is very important to me.

Two wineries are in the spotlight here: Raats and De Trafford, both wineries I consider to be at the forefront of top-quality production.

I wrote last year upon my first encounter with Raats Wines (an article that can be found here) and was impressed by both a vineyard management style that can be described as 'harsh' and a range of wines that can be described as 'awesome.'  At last I managed to revisit two wines of the Raats lineup and was not disappointed by what I found.  The Old Vine Chenin Blanc and the Red Jasper both presented themselves marvellously with all the subtlety and power I remembered from them.

The Old Vine Chenin is still one of the true greats among South African Chenin.  As a varietal that is more and more frequently blended with Viognier and other Rhône varietals at the highest level (to great effect at Sijnn and Keermont), it is comforting to see that Bruwer Raats has put forward a Chenin that exhibits a freshness and linearity that is difficult to rival outside of the Loire Valley and Chablis.  Mineral-laced and lively, it shows off the great character of the decomposed dolomitic granite soils that make this regions terroir so exciting.  The 2012 vintage is easily as good as the 2011 I tasted last year and could easily age for a few years with excellent results.

The Red Jasper is a beautifully fresh, yet full-bodied example of Cabernet Franc in a leading role.  It is a rare thing to see Cab Franc take over the role of Cab Sauv or Merlot and lead a rich Bordeaux blend with such class and poise.  The Red Jasper is one of those wines that is effortlessly enjoyable upon release but has the balance and durability to spend a few years in a forgotten cellar before being gleefully rediscovered a decade later.  I may just neglect a bottle for a bit myself... if I can help myself!

Another wine I was particularly excited to taste again came about entirely by coincidence.  I was lucky enough last year to taste a definitive range of verticals from David Trafford's range.  Both his Stellenbosch wines and his Sijnn project (the 2007 of which I recently revisited here) are truly excellent wines, and I was very fortunate to be able to taste pretty much every vintage of every wine as well as several non-vintage blends.  I recalled tasting the 2005 Blueprint Shiraz as a surprising highlight of the tasting.

Even more surprising was finding two bottles in a loveless state liquor store in Pennsylvania.  I obviously bought them and was overwhelmingly satisfied with my purchase.  Showing beautiful earthy aromas, leather and dark chocolate, along with just a whiff of black olive and ferrous minerality.  I also know for a fact that the Merlot 2004 has withstood the test of time just as beautifully developing some of the qualities of mature bordeaux, while maintaining a smoky richness that is, for me, classically Stellenbosch.

I will continue to hunt for as many wines from my trip as I can, which may be difficult here in New York, but I will do my best and report my findings as I go along.  Til then...

Much Love,

G

Loire Valley

Great examples of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé

Hi Everyone,

Today's post comes to you as I am currently exploring the under-appreciated valley of the Loire.  I know that many of us are introduced to the Loire through it's most popular district, Sancerre, but there is so much to be found as well as this full-flavoured Sauvignon Blanc.

The Loire is renowned throughout the world for so many reasons beyond it's great wines.  It is the very landscape of history, speckled with countless châteaux of the most stunning grandeur and beauty.  Some of the great marvels of European architecture, such as Château de Chaumont and the magnificent Chenonceau, dominate the towns and farmlands of this picturesque river valley.  The Loire itself is a beautiful river, flowing more than 1,000 miles from the south of France, emptying into the Atlantic Ocean at Saint-Nazaire. 

The wines of this region are as numerous and varied as the spires of the noble châteaux which dot the landscape, from the crisp Sauvignon Blancs of Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre to the full sweet Chenin Blanc of Vouvray.  Not to be forgotten of course are the reds, with the noble grape Cabernet Franc dominating alongside a couple of Pinot Noirs.  As I look more and more into these wines, I realise that the Loire Valley is home to some truly great wines, exuding minerality, balanced acidity and overall class and elegance.

Predictably for me, I love the Loire for it's willingness to embrace it's classic traditions.  For a region so visibly steeped in history, prominently exhibited in it's castles and mediaeval market towns, it is natural that the wine-making should follow suit and embrace it's own unique gifts.  Here, wine grows up around towns and gains a reputation for it's individual style.  For example, the wines of Pouily-Fumé, from the vineyards surrounding the town of Pouilly-sur-Loire have developed a delightful, crisp minerality which resembles a struck flint or wet stones.

The wines around the village of Saumur include some delightful reds and some wonderfully balanced whites, from Cabernet France and Chenin Blanc, respectively.  One producer in particular, La Cabriolé makes a great value pair of wines.  The red is freshly acidic, with light tannins and  between bright fruits and herbs.  While they aren't necessarily the world's most perfect wines, nor will they be aging for decades, they are well-structured and show an engaging set of flavours, aromas and acidity.  

Another interesting wine which oes not get nearly the attention it deserves are the reds from around the town of Chinon.  Fresh, light and friendly wines made also from Cabernet Franc are delicious on a summer's day and, in my humble opinion, vastly superior to the similarly light and fruity Beaujolais Nouveau, which serves a similar purpose.  It can be drunk in easily and has a fruity simplicity which makes it perfect for sitting on the porch, watching a summer rain shower.

Saumur, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc

So many of these delicious wines clock in under £20, in fact many cost less than £15.  The Loire must be under-appreciated because so many of these wines could easily be sold for more (indeed many worse wines are sold for more).  Not only are they good value wines, but they're also good food wines, matching pretty much anything you'd have.  A nice oaky Savennieres suits perfectly to a roast chicken, while a Muscadet Sevre et Maine can be a perfect companion to mussels and oysters.  If you're celebrating try a sparkling Crémant de Loire, a traditional fizzy wine blending  Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc along with many other permitted grapes.  Its a nice cheaper alternative to the consistently pricey Champagne.

All this leads me to describe one of my favourite wines under £20.  The red wines of St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, made from Cabernet France with perhaps a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon are beauties for depth, complexity and finesse.  One example, Yannick Amirault La Mine, averaging around £15, has full blackberry flavours with some hints of licorice and a sprinkling of marjoram backed up by hints of bell-pepper.  Alongside a bit of grilled lamb, this wine is absolutely delightful and should be given the credit it deserves. 

Though the wines of the Loire speak for themselves, it seems that often their packaging is a bit old-fashioned and off-putting.  They don't jump out from the shelves as anything interesting.  They tend to look dated and tired, with old-fashioned labels coming between drinkers and a wine they may well enjoy greatly.  Case in point, Cour-Cheverny is a perfectly enjoyable white wine but the label is so dull and off putting, that very few people looking for an interesting wine they've never had would give it a try.

There are a few great gems in the Loire, and if we can get past the old-fashioned look of the bottles there is a bounty of great wine to be found within.  

Much Love,

G